Oxford Street has welcomed a new Italian joint, serving up plant-based versions of seasoned classics. From the group behind Bootleg Sandwiches, Bootleg Italian deals in punchy flavours and a totally vegan menu.

While Paddington certainly isn’t lacking in Italian fare, Bootleg has arrived with a point to prove.

“I was over people saying plant-based food is shit,”  owner Sam Overton told Broadsheet.

“I try to cater for people who aren’t vegan or plant-based…If they choose my place over somewhere that isn’t plant-based, I know I’m doing something right.”

The result? A vegan menu with the star power of a traditional osteria, celebrating vegetables without making a show of it.

Expect zucchini flowers, plates of al dente pasta loaded with ‘parmesan’ and an artfully-layered tiramisu – ‘bootlegs’ of classic plates. Don’t miss the house special: garlicky dough balls drenched in garlic ‘butter’ and so addictive they’re known as ‘crack balls’ by avid patrons.

The easy-on-the-eye list of spritzes and cocktails feels right at home amidst the jewel-toned, velveteen interiors of the restaurant. Whisky sours adorned with skewered maraschino cherries are particularly pretty, made with aquafaba to achieve that famous foam.

With neither a dash of cream nor globe of mozzarella in sight, Italian zealots can’t be blamed for a suspicious approach. The last two years have seen restaurants dropping like flies, with big names in the vegan game no exception. Peppe’s gnoccheria in Bondi shut its doors in November 2021, while Newtown’s Lentil as Anything announced its untimely closure just last week.

Cacio e pepe without the cacio is a daunting prospect. However, nearby stalwarts like Mark + Vinny's and Gigi Pizzeria show the payoff for customer and vendor when plant-based Italian food is executed well – welcoming diners of every diet and discretion.

In 2016, Australia was the third-fastest growing vegan market in the world. Last year Peta also reported that meat consumption in Australia dropped to its lowest point in 25 years – notable given Australia’s place as one of the world's top meat-eating countries.

A hunger for plant-based menus means veganism has become a veritable approach to cuisines, rather than a subsect reserved for those with allergies, intolerances and aversions – and it’s a trend set to stick around.

With a suitable cheese alternative, the opportunities for vegan Italian are endless. And after months spent locked inside last year, Sydneysiders are in the mood to play.

Taking a leaf out of Shannon Martinez’s book – great food first and vegan food next – it’s places like Bootleg prioritising flavour over faction that bridge the gap. And even if you’re only stopping by for a foray into meat-free meals, your tastebuds will thank you later.

Open Wed-Thurs 5pm-12am, Friday-Saturday 4pm-12am

312 Oxford St, Paddington, 0435 101 105, www.bootlegitalian.com