Oxford Street has welcomed a new Italian joint, serving up plant-based versions of seasoned classics. From the group behind Bootleg Sandwiches, Bootleg Italian deals in punchy flavours and a totally vegan menu. While Paddington certainly isn’t lacking in Italian fare, Bootleg has arrived with a point to prove.

Tomatoes have never been a moving force in my life. Far from a showstopper, they've always occupied a steady, stagehand-like presence: a necessary evil on a margherita pizza or thoughtlessly plonked atop a green salad. They say "eat the rainbow" and tomatoes are the first cab off the rank - a crimson pop of acid to balance out the fattiness of yellow cheese - the ingredient I'd much rather be eating.

Originally published on backyardopera.com, September 5 2018